Stock: the foundation on which we build our culinary triumphs, and downfalls in some cases. Many a dish is either based on or enriched with this liquid gold. But sometimes we fail to ask ourselves what it really is. Or, what the hell is in it for that matter. So to help clear things up, we’ll cover these questions and a few more. And of course, figure out how to make and store our own delicious homemade stock. Scrumptious!
Now, the one question that bugged me for years…Stock vs. Broth, is there a difference? Are they just two names for the same thing? Nope. They are in fact two entirely different and separate items. Stock is simply animal bones simmered in water for a prolonged period of time. Broth is the same but with the addition of certain meats and choice aromatics (i.e. carrots, onions, celery, herbs, spices, etc.). Many store-brands you’ll find contain the obvious chicken and water, but will also house preservatives. You can always opt for the lower sodium versions, but there are still preservatives in there. Pickle cucumbers, not your body.
The amazing thing about homemade chicken stock is that it cannot be beat. I don’t care how many blind taste tests you throw at it, or how many of those powdery chicken cubes you boil up. Home stock will always prevail! The mouth-feel from the gelatin cannot be duplicated. I’ve used boxed and canned stocks in a pinch, and I’ve never found one I like. So if you’ve got the time, give this recipe a shot.
Belly’s Chicken Stock
This recipe was basically lifted right out of the French Laundry Cookbook (Sorry, Chef). Except, I leave out any and all aromatics. This is a great launch pad for delicious soups and sauces. It’s also great for finishing dishes that need a little moisture and body. I have a dedicated 12 quart stock pot that I use. But you can use any large heavy-bottomed pot you have on hand. Just figure out some ratio exchanges and go from there (i.e. if you have a 6 qt pot, cut the recipe in half, duh).
5 lbs Chicken Backs
1 lb Chicken Feet (Don’t freak out. This is where the gelatin is!!!)
Water
Rinse all bones and feet with cold water and place in your pot. Cover with fresh cold water up to an inch from the top of the pot. Slowly bring to a simmer. Once the simmer starts, set your clock for 5 hrs. Now, the hard part, there are impurities, fat, and coagulated blood that will rise to the surface…scum. This must be removed to maintain the clarity and cleanliness of your stock. So just skim the scum. Say it out loud…”Skim the Scum!” Good. Now let this bad boy slowly bubble for the next 5 hours while you occasionally skim. Say once every half hour or so. Do not stir. This will loosen and release more scum into your stock. Be sure to adjust your heat so that you only see an occasional bubble rise up every couple seconds. A raging simmer or boil will only loosen and introduce more scum.
Now, I like to taste my stock as it rolls. No, don’t taste it 5 minutes in, the chicken is still raw. Let it go for a couple hours and taste it every hour. This is just so you can see where you’ve been and where you’re going. When it’s done, it’ll be chickeny and rich. Mmmmm. When you’ve reached the golden hour kill the fire. Let your stock hang out and cool for a while. Say a couple hours. Trust me, as long as it’s above 140 degrees you’re good.
Time to strain! Line the biggest strainer you have with cheesecloth and ladle your baby into a very clean container. Once this is done, you can drop it in the fridge or introduce a zip-loc bag full of ice cubes to cool it down quicker. I usually refrigerate my stock overnight as the fat emulsified in it will rise to the top and harden, at which point it can be easily pulled off with a spoon. Boom! You got stock, and for pennies on the dollar. Remember who sent ya.
Now, using or storing this massive tub of stock is easy for a restaurant. They use their supply up every day or two and have walk-in refrigerators. But you, you got better things to store, like leftover chinese. So a few storage options are something we’ll have to dive into. Me, I use something we probably all have…ice cube trays. Yes! Stock can be frozen for use at a later time. Simply fill your trays with stock, cover the top with plastic wrap and freeze. Once frozen, drop the cubes into a freezer bag and continue the process until your tub is empty. I’ve kept stock for up to 6 months this way and I’m sure it could go longer. If you want to keep it in the fridge, just make sure to boil it for 5 minutes at least once every 5 days. I wouldn’t participate in this practice more than once per batch, but you can do with your stock as you please.
